Innledning
I slammed into the sand and spun up on the beach. The wave followed me, but slowly stopped and backed off. It was almost like the ocean had given me a warning and thrown me up on land.
This was the feeling I loved, this was my passion. I lied there trying to catch my breath, looking out at the cold February water.
There is something very calming about the raging ocean. It always humbles you. No matter who you are and how cocky you behave, the waves will always bring you back as a humble man.
I looked out at Arlo as he caught one of the big mamas. “Yeeeeeee” he’s screaming, “Weehoooooo” he screams again.
Utdrag
Fuck what do I do? Arlo is a better surfer than me, he might handle the wave breaking over him. But fuck, what do I do?
I decided to bail. Right in that moment I thought this was the right decision, little did I know what followed would occupy my thoughts for the rest of my life.
I ripped of my foot strap as fast as I possibly could and jumped off the board. I dived down and swam as fast as I could against the ocean bottom. I felt the wave as it passed my feet.
If I had fumbled another second with my foot strap, I would have been swallowed by the big bomb, the mother of all big mamas.
I kept diving down and grabbed a big rock at the bottom. I had trained for this, I had trained holding my breath every day incase this happened.
Staring up at the raging surface, I realized that I was at least 10 meters deep under the chaos. In a stable environment I can hold my breath for three minutes.
It had barely bin 10 seconds and I already felt the need for air. I kind of liked the feeling, the more desperate you get for air, the more alive you feel when you finally get it.
Just after I let go of the rock, I saw the seaweed go from green to black, just like if something was projecting a shadow.
I quickly turned around and almost passed away from fear. Right towards me came a big black hole. A mouth of some sort.
This was the end I thought. I moved from Australia because of sharks, just to be swallowed by a shark here in Norway.
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